ANNA BARNETT

My month as a vegan: how I survived and is it really worth it?

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As a meat eater and keen carnivore I can’t deny that marrying a vegetarian has somewhat put a spanner in the works when it comes to mealtimes.

Sunday roasts aren’t quite the same; there’s no Chateaubriand for two on date nights, whilst my famous seafood linguine and homemade chicken Kievs have had to take the back seat at dinnertime.

My general attitude to cooking a quick midweek meal has changed dramatically and for the better. I can honestly say I feel far healthier (and thinner!) for a more plant-based diet. I’ve been challenged creatively with my dishes and have had to rethink and rework my usual repertoire to accommodate the lack of meat to create flavoursome and wholesome vegetarian dishes.


After feeling such a positive change in wellbeing so quickly, I decided to take things one step further and trial a month of veganism. The prospect of ditching the dairy was, although challenging, not completely daunting and I was keen to push myself in the kitchen creating exciting dishes that were 100 per cent vegan. Anyone that knows me will attest to the fact that two of my great passions are cheese and butter - and in vast quantities. Cheese is such an easy way to add rich flavour to so many vegetarian dishes.

I started out strong, determined and organised. I watched the documentaries that got me on board morally (Cowspiracy and What the Health) and cooked up some seriously good food; homemade pasta using silken tofu, rich garlic and turmeric daAls with homemade flatbreads, Mexican DIY style wraps, curries, Asian style broths, cashew cream ice creams, risottos, filo pastry pies. There were endless salads, roasted, charred and confit vegetables, vegan pestos...Things were going well. Even dining out was relatively painless with most restaurants being more than accommodating, especially if we gave them a heads up when booking.

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So did I last the whole month? The truth is no. Things were very much on track until we visited the Grandparents. I just couldn't tell my Nan on her 89th birthday that I wasn't going to eat her cottage pie. It’s the same cottage pie she would make for my brother and I the moment we were weaned onto solids and I’ve had hundreds since. As you can probably imagine, this isn't just an average cottage pie, it comes served with the hugest jug of mince meat-heavy, thick, rich gravy, garden grown green beans and carrots from the chap round the corner. I caved, kept quiet and enjoyed every mouthful. A small blip in an otherwise successful month.

My month long trial was a great experience. There's no doubt the vegan diet is trending; there's not a day where I don't see a new vegan product, restaurant or cookbook. I agree with the benefits that are preached. I felt healthier and less sluggish, my conscience was clearer and I enjoyed researching new and exciting dishes.

For now, I’m aiming to keep meals at home 100 per cent vegan and have the odd cheese binge or fish treat when I eat out. For me, a ‘Flexi-vegan’ or ‘Flegan’ diet feels like a challenge anyone can achieve with some simple planning and research. Why not give it a go?


The ultimate indulgent veggie weekend brunch

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Anna Barnett's recipe for ​Truffled French toast with poached egg, confit artichoke & miso aubergine

This one isn’t a quick brunch fix but it's one well worth investing time in. Get prepped well in advance and this will be a feast worth every moment spent in the kitchen.

Truffled French toast topped with rich truffle hollandaise, poached egg, charred confit artichoke hearts and blackened miso and sesame baby aubergines. Delicious!

Confit artichoke hearts | Feeds: 4-6 | Preparation time: 30 minutes | Cooking time : 1hr

ingredients:
15 baby artichokes – trimmed and left whole - kept in water with lemon juice
1.5 litres of olive oil
Small bunch of thyme
1 tbsp black peppercorns left whole
Generous sprinkle of salt
3 fresh bay leaves
Whole bulb of garlic - peeled
Zest of half a lemon - left in large strips

Method:
Pat dry the artichokes before adding them along with all other ingredients to the oil and cook over a medium heat for an hour or until the artichokes are soft but not overcooked | Allow to cool and store in oil until ready to use.

Char whole or halved artichoke hearts on a hot griddle and serve with finely grated truffle, lemons zest and freshly ground black pepper.

Miso & sesame baby aubergine | Feeds: 4 | Preparation time: 5 minutes | Cooking Time: 20 minutes
Ingredients:
8 small/baby aubergines
4 tbsp of white miso paste
Several generous glugs of mirin
Squeeze of honey
Small glug of soy

Garnish:
3 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
Several turns of black pepper
Several sprigs of parsley – finely chopped
Drizzle of rapeseed oil
Sprinkle of sea salt flakes

method:
Begin by heating a griddle until almost smoking |
then place on the aubergines allowing to blacken on one side for about 3-4 minutes before turning and repeating on the other side | Once blackened and soft, slice down the middle | Combine the miso paste, mirin, honey and soy and spoon over aubergines then place under the grill at 200 degrees Celsius for 3-5 minutes | Serve with a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds and a sprinkle of parsley | Drizzle with a little rapeseed oil, sprinkle with sea salt flakes and serve

Truffled hollandaise sauce
Ingredients:
400g unsalted butter – clarified
4 free range egg yolks (Clarence Court)
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp Dijon Mustard
Generous pinch of sea salt flakes
Several turns of freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp finely grated black truffle/ drizzle of truffle oil

method:
Start by separating the eggs
Place the yolks into a separate bowl | Melt 200g of unsalted butter in a small pan and once melted separate the milk solids, keeping just the clear clarified butter | Put the bowl of egg yolks over a pan of gently simmering water. Add one tablespoon of lemon juice and two tbsp of mustard | Whisk together thoroughly

Gradually add small splashes of butter to the bowl with the yolks, whisking well between each addition and continue until all butter is used

French toast and poached egg | Feeds: 4 | Preparation Time: 5 minutes | Cooking Time: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
4 eggs – Clarence Court Cotswold eggs (for extra richness of colour)
Generous splash of full fat milk
1 heaped tbsp of plain flour
Generous drizzle of truffle oil
Sprinkle of sea salt flakes
Several turns of freshly ground black pepper
Tiger loaf – thickly cut on a slight diagonal
Olive oil/rapeseed oil for frying
4 eggs – Clarence Court Cotswold eggs (for extra richness of colour)

Method:
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well |
Next soak the bread for 3-4 minutes on both sides in the mixture | Heat a frying pan with a generous glug of oil and fry over a medium heat until golden on both sides ensuring that you cook it for long enough that it’s cooked through | Your French toast can be fried just before serving

Tip: Keep an ice cube readily available at this stage. If you can see that the mixture is starting to split, drop in the ice cube and whisk it in. This can save the hollandaise sauce!

Once all the butter is incorporated you should have a smooth, thickened sauce | Loosen the mixture with some white wine vinegar if needed and added seasoning to taste along with your grated truffle Adding a splash of truffle oil works too

For the poached eggs first bring a pan of water to the boil and add a splash of vinegar | Swirl the water with a spoon before gently cracking the eggs one at a time into the boiling water. Cook for 3-4 minutes as preferred

To plate up first place your French toast in the centre of your plate and top with a poached egg | Drizzle a generous helping of truffled hollandaise sauce and serve with both the griDDLEd miso aubergines and confit artichoke for a truly decadent brunch


GUARDIAN LABS & LAVAZZA

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CHRISTMAS RECIPES FOR GRAZIA

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IN PRAISE OF PASTA - THE GUARDIAN & BARILLA

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veggie magazine: luca restaurant review

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grazia food pages

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veggie magazine: in the kitchen with anna

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veggie magazine: summer salads

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HELLO MAGAZINE: VEGEtarian christmas spread

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SOHO HOUSE: house seven magazine

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THE telegraph - six ways to dress your table this christmas

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CHRISTMAS GRAZIA SHOOT

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grazia solo vs sociable : spaghetti with gorgonzola & walnuts

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 stella magazine

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LIVINGETC INTERIORS SHOOT AT OUR NEWLY RENOVATED SCHOOL CONVERSION.

IMAGES BY JAMES MERRELL | STYLING JENNIFER HASLAM

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WHO WHAT WEAR : Best Wardrobes in Britain

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Welcome to the latest highly exciting instalment of Who What Wear UK’s Best Wardrobes in Britain. It’s where we do exactly what it says on the tin: delve into the most fantastical, awe-inspiring and downright influential wardrobes in this fair country of ours. We’re honing in on the women who cause the street style photographers to press their shutters as much as the characters you don’t yet know—the ones who fly under the radar with secretly incredible clothing collections.

Everything about chef Anna Barnett's Dalston mezzanine flat is perfectly curated, from the display of stoneware crockery to the gigantic pantry cupboard. You get the sense that a lot of thought has gone into every item on every shelf. The phrase "investment buy" can be thrown around in fashion writing, however, it can be a real skill to sift through passing trends and know which are the items you will actually love for years. But Anna has a very clear sense of personal style, which is reflected in both her home and her wardrobe.

Her home is calm and minimal with a considered neutral palette, big Crittall windows and notably no clutter. While she loves an Acne jumper, I wouldn't use the word "minimal" to describe her wardrobe. The items she wears (and invests in) the most are beautifully crafted silk dresses, chunky shoes and made-to-last minimal basics—and she styles them in a typically London fashion: She'll typically wear one high-impact fashion item but then counter it with simple basics. For example, she'll wear black socks with Miu Miu sandals, black rollnecks under sequinned dresses and re-wear the Roksanda dress she wore to her London town hall wedding with trainers.

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On Anna Barnett: Whistles jumper; & Other Stories dress; COS trousers; Valentino slides; necklace from her grandad; Celine alphabet necklace

Anna started her career in events and celebrity booking for MTV and went onto work at the fashion label House of Holland, however, in 2015, she moved into the world of food. She wrote her first cookbook in 2015 and now hosts a series of cookery classes at her London home as well as working on numerous other culinary projects.

This shoot was captured just weeks before the outbreak of coronavirus in the UK, and Anna has unsurprisingly spent her time indoors in her kitchen, and she is inviting us all in too. As the nation has moved inside Anna has started live-streaming daily cooking masterclasses on Instagram. P.S., today at 6 p.m., she'll be showing us how to make a noodle dish on Who What Wear's Instagram.

But before you rush off to start making sourdough and pasta dishes with Anna, keep scrolling for a glimpse inside her wardrobe.

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On Anna Barnett: Roksanda dress; Manolo Blahnik shoes

What items in your wardrobe are you the most sentimental about?

Probably my yellow Roksanda dress that I got married in in London. I just love it so much—it is such a statement dress, and I sometimes think people might think, "Oh, I've seen you in that before," but I just don't care. I think if you really love something and you want to feel special, you should wear it all the time and not save it! I've worn it with trainers and sandals, but I've also worn it to other people's weddings too.

Who are your favourite designers?

Over the years, I've always loved Miu Miu for shoes (I've got some amazing mirrored heels and the green sandals I'm wearing today from them). I've collected a few special wonderful pieces from Mother of Pearl and then I worked at House of Holland and lived and breathed the brand, so have so many of its pieces.

For dresses, I love Edit the Brand, Roksanda and Temperley, as they are just so feminine and beautiful. Then I also love brands like COS that do a great boxy fit and Acne for staples. I love Simone Rocha, which is very feminine but chunky and comfortable. I basically just love a comfortable gown!

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On Anna Barnett: Manolo Blahnik shoes

When you shop, is it important for you to think about how much you'll wear something?

Yes, but I always love to trawl through Zara and see the trends it's copying. I very rarely buy things from there, but it's the process of putting things in my basket and really thinking about what I then actually buy. I don't buy things I'm not certain about or don't love because I know I won't have the respect for it once I have it and I won't care for it.

I know it's a bad way to be, so I try to buy things that I will be really invested in and think I can dress it up and down and wear it with everything I have. I just try to be mindful and all the dresses that I've spent a lot of money on I've worn a lot. I got married four years ago and still absolutely love this yellow dress.

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On Anna Barnett: House of Holland dress; House of Holland x Grenson boots; Topshop blazer

Have you always been interested in fashion?

Growing up, my family friends called me "habdash" because I used to work in haberdashery, and they'd say, "You just wear all the things." And I did wear all the things. The worst thing I did wear out was vintage brown culottes that had bright fluorescent yellow and pink flowers on it. I'd wear skirts as dresses and culottes as dresses. I was quite creative, really!

When did you find your style?

It just evolves, doesn't it? More than ever, comfort is such a big thing for me. I want something that feels special but that is just comfortable and warm and cosy. I ultimately like the idea of being in a luxe cashmere tracksuit. If I had lots of money to spend on clothes, I'd buy a beautiful tracksuit from somewhere like The Row.

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On Anna Barnett: Mother of Pearl dress

Is there anything you have worn that you wouldn't wear again?

Style always changes. Trends do change, but the only thing I actually regret is those brown culottes.

What items have you been loving looking at recently?

I'm just constantly trawling and often have lots of dresses saved in wish lists. I love midi dresses in bright colours with oversize sleeves at the moment that are just so fun to wear.

Do you think about things a lot before you buy them?

I'm impulsive, but I've got better and really consider everything. Also, renovating this flat meant I had to just stop shopping. There is something so nice about buying and wearing something new, but it makes it more important that you buy something you really want to invest in and you think about for days after you've seen it, and then you go back and buy it and you know it makes you happy. It's like "Yes, this does bring me joy," instead of just the thrill of something new.

What items do you wear the most?

Dresses and jumpers! I love big cosy jumpers and am such a fiend for a tracksuit. It's a tracksuit or high-end dresses. I'm all or nothing. I probably wear the same thing day in and day out and think a good jumper is my key item.

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On Anna Barnett: Miu Miu shoes

What do you tend to wear for work in the kitchen?

If I'm working in the kitchen doing shooting or cooking for shoots, I am very practical, and because I work on my own quite a lot, I always then like to make more effort when I do go out. I love buying investment pieces, so I do wear them. Even if I'm wearing a lot of layered black dresses, jumpers and trousers, I'll wear a really nice pair of shoes. It just makes you feel nicer for it, and if you've been dressed down all day, it can just be so much fun.

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On Anna Barnett: Self-Portrait dress; Aquazzura shoes

Thanks for having us, Anna! 

 

store cupboard essentials with The Modern house

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This time most of us now face at home, while of course frustrating and uncertain, presents opportunities too, and cooking something nourishing, sustaining and perhaps a little more challenging than a standard weeknight meal is certainly one way to make the most of things. In this isolation edition of our food series, we visit the kitchen of cook Anna Barnett (who we previously met at her last place, a shared house in a converted pub in east London) to get her store cupboard essentials and a recipe for homemade tagliatelle with braised fennel and peas. Making this at home? Show us the results using the hashtag #themodernmenu on Instagram.

Anna, what are your store cupboard essentials?

“Great sea salt flakes are an absolute staple in our household. A good stockpile of black peppercorns is also essential, I use endless amounts in every meal.

“Anchovies, eaten straight from the jar (my preference) or used as the base to a great pasta sauce, in stews and pretty much everything else.

“Tinned cherry tomatoes are definitely my preference over the regular plum tomatoes. They are super sweet, so no sugar is needed when cooking with them.

“Butterbeans and chickpeas. These are so great for everything from salads to stews and even snacks (roast them up with herbs and spices for a crunchy snack).

“‘00’ flour. There’s nothing more brilliant than making your own pasta so this has to be included. ‘00’ (double zero) flour is finer that normal flour, making it suitable for fresh pasta making.

“I’m a big fan of rice dishes and can often be found cooking up congees, biryanis as well as the humble but brilliant egg fried rice. These are all super simple recipes but so delicious.

“Chilli flakes. An incredible easy way to add spice to your cooking and can be used in pretty much any dish. They’re a must have.

“Capers. A great way to add a bit of salty seasoning to your dish. Fry them up until crisp and use in salads, stews and rice dishes. They’re delish.

“Dried, Greek-style oregano. After holidaying in Greece, I can’t get enough of dried oregano. It’s delicious in salads and soups and is great for seasoning meats and vegetables. Throw it in everything!”

What’s always in your fridge?

“I like to make sure I always have a good selection of fresh herbs. Parsley, dill, sage and coriander are my go-tos. You can liven up any dish with a hit of fresh herbs.

“Condiments too; my fridge is packed full of them, Dijon, harissa, an array of chilli sauces, pickled and fermented veg, kimchi – all are brilliant additions to any dish or great when whipping up a marinade or sauce.”

And what can’t you ever go without?

“A good loaf of sourdough and great coffee are probably mainstays in our kitchen…you’ve got to the start the day right!”

Braised fennel with peas and homemade tagliatelle

Feeds 4-6

Preparation Time – 10 minutes

Resting Time – 30 minutes

Cooking Time – 25 minutes

Ingredients –

Fresh Pasta

400g ‘00’ flour

generous sprinkle of table salt

4 medium free-range eggs (Heritage Breed variety gives you a more vibrant/orange coloured pasta)

 

Sauce –

several generous glugs of olive oil

1 white onion – finely diced

3 cloves of garlic – crushed, peeled and finely sliced

1 star anise

1 small/medium bulb of fennel – finely sliced on a mandolin  (fennel tops set to one side to garnish)

1 large glass of white wine

250ml vegetable stock

200g fresh or frozen peas

2 sprigs of dill – picked

generous sprinkle of sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

sprinkle of dried oregano

Garnish –

1-2tbsp fennel pollen

Zest of half a lemon

40g Parmesan – finely grated

drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

 

Instructions

Begin by making your pasta as you will need to place it in the fridge to rest before rolling it out.

Pour your flour out onto your work surface and make a well in the middle. Crack your eggs into the well, add the salt and using a fork combine the eggs and flour until it all comes together. Once it starts to create a paste, roll up your sleeves and get your hands involved. You’ll need to knead the dough for around five minutes or until the dough is smooth and springy. When you slice into it you should see air pockets.  Wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge for at least thirty minutes before rolling it out.

Once rested divide your dough into four pieces (keep the pieces you are not rolling out wrapped in clingfilm to avoid them drying out) then using a rolling pin roll out each piece into a rectangular shape ready to pass through your pasta machine. Be sure to pass it through each setting twice, starting with the largest and working your way down to the second smallest before finally passing it through the tagliatelle setting. You can also roll this out with a rolling pin, just ensure you roll out the pasta until it’s almost transparent and gently flour and fold into four before slicing it into tagliatelle.

For the sauce heat several generous glugs of olive oil in a large heavy based dish and place over a medium heat. Add onions, garlic and star anise and allow to sweat until the onion is translucent. This should take around six or seven minutes. Next add in the fennel and allow to cook for several minutes until it softens. Increase the heat and add in the white wine, bringing it to a boil to cook off any alcohol. After a minute or so add in the stock and peas and allow to continue to cook until your pasta is ready. Taste and adjust seasoning accordingly.

 

To cook your pasta bring a large pan of generously salted water to the boil and once boiling add your pasta. Ensure at this stage that everything else is pretty much ready to go as it will only take a few minutes to cook. Gently stir the pasta for the first minute or so ensuring it doesn’t stick and allow to cook until al dente. This should take around one to two minutes. Using tongs transfer the pasta directly from the water into your sauce and gently combine. Grate in your lemon zest, add a little extra black pepper, throw in the fennel tops and the fresh dill then finish with a generous sprinkle of Parmesan and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

 GRAZIA SUMMER DINING SHOOT

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 John Lewis EASTER FEATURE

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THE SUNDAY TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE

- RENOVATION COLUMN 

 OKA

 The sunday times style magazine

 dog book published 2022